Home' Get Up and Go : Spring 2013 Contents to the rest of us, as evidenced by a
neat, functional kitchen and kitsch
boudoir with twin beds.
Look out Dali’s studio window and
you see the coast that he rendered as
a realm of soft clocks and melting
rocks — ‘the critically paranoiac
camembert of space and time’, as he
put it. Less enigmatically, he also said
of Portlligat: ‘I am not at home, except
in this place.’ He still is.
At the inland village of Pubol sits the
modest castle that Dali bought for his
muse, Gala in order to make her the
‘queen of a castle’ — but inevitably
turned into a museum to himself.
His art is everywhere, including huge
trompe l’oeil ceiling murals, while Gala
is represented by a few of her own
creations and a collection of dresses.
Also present are their cars; a vast black
Cadillac for him; a nondescript Datsun
for her. Across the road a gift store sells
Dali-phernalia including walking canes
with a melting clock handgrip.
The museum as autobiography
that is one way to approach the
extraordinary Teatro Museo Dali in
Figueres. In 1960 he began work on a
rebuilt 19th century theatre that is now
billed as the world’s largest surrealistic
object and is home to hundreds of his
artworks. The exhibits range from his
gimmicky ‘Rainy Taxi’ (an ancient
Cadillac with a self-inundating jungle
interior) and the ravishing Mae West
Room to familiar paintings such as
Atomic Leda. One surprise is the
delicate work in his jewellery museum
annex, including a tiny, pulsating
‘human heart’ made of rubies.
Salvador Dali’s life and work come
full circle in this Grand Guignol
self-expo. The church across the
street hosted both his baptism and,
84 years later, his funeral. He first
exhibited his art in this theatre at age
14. After a lifetime’s production of
more than 1500 paintings, plus films,
performances, photographs, books
and advertisements, Dali lies in the
crypt beneath his own monumental
The writer travelled courtesy of Spain
Tourism and Singapore Airlines.
r Getting there
Singapore Airlines flies from
Australia to Barcelona Visit:
_ Being there
travel Dali’s Spain with rail Europe:
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Conditions: *Prices are per person twin share land only and vary per departure date selected, subject to availability. Single supplements apply. Advertised prices based on travel: Highlights of Spain 4 Jan – 29 Mar 2014; Amazing Spain &
Portugal 4 Jan – 29 Mar 2014; Treasures of Spain, Portugal & Morocco 3 Jan – 28 Feb 2014; Best of Morocco 4 Jan – 15 Feb 2014. ^Savings based on 5% Early Payment Discount. Must pay in full by 31 October 2013 for savings to apply.
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14291IVAS_Get up and go_V4.indd 1
20/08/13 10:35 AM
In Shock of the New Robert
Hughes cheekily noted of
Dali that , ‘as a bodily
the only rival to
Van Gogh’s ear
Dali’s ‘Mae west’ room
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